After a few whirlwind days in Tokyo, we wanted to slow things down, so instead of doing Hakone as a typical day trip, we booked a night at a ryokan. I’d never stayed at one before and wasn’t totally sure what to expect. Here’s how it actually went, from booking it to whether it lived up to the hype.
Jump to: Why I wanted to stay at a Ryokan in Hakone | What is a ryokan | Booking my stay | My experience at the ryokan | Was it worth the splurge
Why I wanted to stay at a Ryokan in Hakone
Hakone has so much to do, so there are plenty of reasons to stay here for more than a day-trip! From the Hakone Ropeway, to the Open Air Museum, to lots of hikes and viewpoints of Mount Fuji. But I mainly decided to stay overnight because I wanted to splurge on a one-night luxury ryokan experience: private onsen, traditional dinner, the whole nine yards. And after a few busy, fast-paced days in Tokyo, it was exactly the respite we needed before continuing on with the rest of the trip!
What is a ryokan
If you’re not familiar with the term, a ryokan is a traditional Japanese inn. They’re actually among the oldest hotels in the world, with roots tracing back to the 8th century. Unlike a standard hotel, a ryokan stay centers on Japanese hospitality and tradition rather than just being a place to sleep.
A few things set a ryokan apart: rooms feature tatami mat flooring, and while many ryokans still stick to the traditional futon-on-the-floor setup, plenty (including the one I stayed at) also offer a regular bed if that’s more your speed. You’ll get a yukata, a cotton robe, to wear around the property for your whole stay. Most ryokans also include an onsen (a hot spring bath, either private or communal) and a kaiseki dinner, a multi-course meal built around small, seasonal dishes, plus a traditional Japanese breakfast the next morning.
Because ryokans usually bundle meals into the price, they tend to run more expensive than a standard hotel room. But, you’re really paying for an experience rather than a hotel, which definitely helps to justify the price.
Booking my stay
I decided to stay at Gora Hanaougi, a ryokan in the Gora area of Hakone. I booked through Chase Travel since I wanted to use my points for it, but it’s also available to book directly on Hotels.com or Expedia.
We got a twin room with a private onsen and terrace, with breakfast and dinner included. All in, it came out to $653.80, which included the food for 2 people. That’s a real splurge compared to a typical hotel night. For example, my Tokyo hotel was only $160 a night. But with the private onsen, a full traditional dinner, and breakfast included, it felt worth it for the experience. This ryokan is also right next to a stop of the Hakone ropeway, which makes it super convenient if you’re planning to check that out!
My experience at the ryokan
Checking in
From the moment we pulled up, you could tell this was a luxury experience. I normally stay at pretty moderate hotels, so the difference in hospitality is obvious: they don’t miss a single detail. The staff were incredibly kind, helping take our bags out of the car and even parking it for us while we checked in. Once inside, we’re provided with geta, traditional Japanese wooden sandals, to wear around the property during your stay. After checking in, they brought us to a small lounge area for tea and dessert.
The room
From there, staff escorted us to the room, which was absolutely stunning. It’s a large room and there are beautiful wooden fixtures and flooring throughout. The best part is the view that looks straight onto the mountains of Hakone. All the little amenities are lovely too, fancy soaps and thoughtful touches everywhere you look. And the bed was five-star. The comforter was like sleeping on a cloud.
The private onsen
The first thing I did was get in our private onsen. It is right outside on the balcony, also overlooking the mountains. After a few days busy days in Tokyo, it was exactly what I needed. Sitting in the hot water, with the cool air surrounding you was so rejuvenating. Worth noting: many public onsens don’t allow tattoos, so having a private onsen is a nice workaround if that applies to you, or if you’re just not comfortable being naked in front of strangers.
The food
Now let’s talk about the food. The ryokan provided dinner and breakfast, and I was so excited because I love trying new things and am an adventurous eater. However, the timing was a little unfortunate: I’d actually gotten food poisoning while we were in Tokyo and was still recovering. The food was very traditional, and definitely unique from an American perspective. Normally this is exactly my kind of thing, but I didn’t enjoy it as much as I would have since I wasn’t feeling great. I guess I’ll just have to come back and try it again! Even so, it was a fun experience, basically a long string of courses and small bites, which is my favorite way to eat since you get to try so much. If you’re a picky eater, this might not be the meal for you.
Was it worth the splurge
Yes, this was 100% worth the splurge. It’s the kind of travel memory I’ll carry with me for a long time. Watching the sunrise over the mountains from our private onsen is a new core memory.
I don’t normally pay this much for hotels, but I’m always willing to pay for a truly great experience, and that’s exactly what this was. It felt more like an activity than just a place to rest my head. I also think one night is the right amount of time: just enough to recharge and be ready for the rest of your trip. Staying just one night also meant the whole late afternoon/evening felt dedicated to the ryokan experience. If I’d stayed two nights, I probably would have wanted to explore Hakone more, and then felt guilty for not spending enough time at the hotel to get my money’s worth.
Beyond the ryokan itself, staying overnight in Hakone gave us more breathing room to actually take everything in, instead of rushing through it on a tight day-trip schedule. Side note: I’d also recommend renting a car! It makes getting around the area and seeing all the different Mount Fuji viewpoints much easier. You can check out my post all about renting a car in Japan for more on that.
If you’re debating whether to splurge on a ryokan during your own Japan trip, definitely go for it if you can!
